2012 Honda Gold Wing Review

Honda’s Gold Wing has for years stood at the pinnacle of the luxury-touring market, providing the best balance of comfort and performance in its class. But that supremacy is now under threat from BMW’s new K1600 GTL that received a very favorable review from Editor Duke a few weeks ago.
In the face of increased competition, Honda chose to arm the 2012 Gold Wing with only moderate improvements. This nonchalance begs the question: When will Honda retaliate with a full-model revamp?  Until that event, whenever it may come, “it’s the little things that count” adage will have to suffice for Gold Wing devotees.
With Honda providing both 2012 and 2010 Gold Wing models for back-to-back comparison purposes, the minor upgrades gracing the 2012 GL were readily apparent. Trivial as the upgrades may be, they do exist, and the effort at least justifies the $300 increase in MSRP between 2010 and 2012 base models ($22,899 vs. $23,199, respectively).

The 2012 Honda Gold Wing (left) sits next to the 2010 iteration, showing its new tires, revised side fairings and longer saddlebags.

The purpose for this back-to-back comparo – made evident on the tight, switchback roads of California’s Coastal Range we were traversing – was to highlight the improved handling of the 2012 Gold Wing. Where the old Wing wore Dunlop tires, the new Wing is shod with Bridgestone rubber. But, as Honda was quick to point out, the Bridgestones were developed to work in harmony with the 2012’s revised suspension, so they won’t necessarily give new life to the old Wing.

New silver side fairings are the most distinctive cue that you’re looking at the 2012 Gold Wing.

Besides new top and bottom internal bushings in the fork, Honda was only able to say that there are revised front and rear suspension settings in the 2012 Wing. Front-wheel travel is stated at 4.8 inches, which is a reduction from the 5.5 claimed for the previous Wings. But Honda tells us that travel is actually unchanged, figuring the old spec was a typo and confirming the new 4.8-inch figure.
Whatever the case, there is a marginally improved aspect to the 2012 Gold Wing’s handling manners. I say marginally because the 2010’s handling is already impeccable for such weighty machine, but the new model is a little more eager to drop into a corner. And where the 2010 model requires slightly more input to hold its line navigating a long corner, the 2012 holds its lean angle and maintains the rider’s chosen arc. Cornering clearance seemed equal to the ’10 Wing, and both were equally resistant to bottoming out. 
The most noticeable seat-of-the-pants improvement to the 2012 Wing, quite literally, is its seat. Hopping off the old model and onto the new model, it was clear that the new urethane seat material and seat cover are truly an improvement. Not quite Tempur-Pedic mattress material, but the GL’s new seat provided support equivalent to that level of comfort. And any passenger will be greeted by one of the best pillion seats in the business, a much more comforting place to sit than the BMW GTL’s seat – if you don’t want whining from the back seat, you’ll hear less of it with the Wing.

Through the decades, Gold Wings have always had great seats, and the one on the 2012 model could be its best yet.

Because navigating a 900-pound motorcycle through territory where sportbikes normally roam demanded my full attention, I wasn’t able to fiddle with the Gold Wing’s upgraded electronics. Yes, I did manage to find an appropriate station on the Wing’s XM satellite radio (some heavy metal to accentuate the heavy peg grinding), but Honda did upgrade other aspects of its audio and navigation systems.

Honda engineers have made several suspension tweaks and fitted new tires to the 2012 Gold Wing. Turn-in response is slightly quicker than the venerable previous version, and cornering clearance remains excellent for such a big rig.

New for the Wing’s audio system is MP3/iPod connectivity. Yes, the device connection resides in the top box, but its location is unimportant because Honda incorporated control of the iPod into its handlebar controls and dashboard view screen. You can access playlists, artists, albums, etc., just as if you had the device in your hand. There’s also a new surround-sound aspect to the speaker layout providing an enhanced listening experience. I could hear the rear speakers more clearly, even at freeway speeds.
Before leaving on our day ride, we were given a tech briefing on Honda’s new satellite-linked navigation system. According to Honda, the updated system provides more up-to-date information because of a quicker connection between bike and satellite. The viewing screen is also now brighter for better viewing.
A very usable new feature when traveling to unknown regions is the GPS’s lane-assist function that tells the rider in advance if the desired off-ramp is on the left or right of the freeway. There’s also a new 3-D terrain view. Next to the iPod connection in the top box is a new, removable flash card that allows Gold Wing owners to remove their route, download it to a personal computer then upload it and share it with fellow Gold Wingers.
Curiously, the new Gold Wing’s wheels come encased in a sheen of clear coating. Honda says it’s for easier cleaning and to keep the wheels in better shape for a longer period of time. For anyone who remembers the yellowy, peeling, clear-coated wheels from the 1980s, this may seem like a mistake. But Honda assured me that while the clear coat is the same recipe, the process of application has changed, and it was the process 30 years ago that caused motorcycle owners to spend hours with a fistful of steel wool stripping the baneful sealant from the wheels of their ride.

Upgrades to the 2012 Gold Wing include new iPod menu, surround sound, and a much more contemporary navigation system.

The redesigned fairing of the 2012 Gold Wing, with its color-contrasting side panels, is distinctive, setting the largely unchanged new Wing apart from its predecessors. The new look freshens the Gold Wing’s profile and, according to Honda, the fairing is slightly wider, providing improved wind protection.

The Wing’s rear gets freshened up for 2012.

While a better wind pocket was hard to confirm during the blustery afternoon spent aboard the two Wings, the restyled rear of the bike, with its relocated taillight, was visually pleasing and its functionality evident. By centralizing the taillight between the saddlebags and lengthening the saddlebags themselves, the new Gold Wing gains an additional seven liters of storage. Parked next to one another, the 2012 saddlebags appear smaller, but ‘tis only an optical illusion.
Another visual cue on the new GL is the engine cover directly above the brake/shift levers. It was chrome on the old model, but it’s now black to, according to Honda, “modernize” the look. But instead of being chrome or color-matched with an upgrade to one of the three trim levels above the base model, this unfinished, plastic, black panel comes on all 2012 Gold Wings. It looks cheaper in person than it does in pictures and is unbecoming for such a high-end motorcycle.
So the updated 2012 Gold Wing is a better a motorcycle, receiving upgrades in areas that truly benefit its rider. However, at $23,199 to $28,499, the Gold Wing is pricier than the new BMW K1600 GTL which retails for $23,200 to $25,845.

Our correspondent wasn’t a fan of the Wing’s new black engine cover.

The new Beemer is faster, lighter, has Bluetooth connectivity and an electrically adjustable windscreen. But the Wing has more luxurious passenger accommodations and perhaps has a slight edge in slow-speed handling.

source: motorcycle.com

2011 Yamaha FZ8 Review - First Ride

Yamaha’s potent yet manageable FZ8 is enough to make its paternal grandfather, the R1, blush with pride.
As the latest beneficiary from Yamaha’s repli-racer genetic stock, the 779cc inline-Four is endowed with some of Yamaha’s most inspired sporting technology which should serve it well in its life as an everyday sporting Standard.
The FZ8’s DNA has roots in Yamaha’s premier sportbike, the YZF-R1. The current FZ1’s engine was derived from the pre-crossplane R1. The new offspring inherits the FZ1’s R1-inspired alloy perimeter frame, its chassis geometry, some engine components, as well as many design elements from its compact and efficient engine.

The FZ8 shares much in common with the FZ1.

Since we’ve already covered most of the FZ8’s tech details in our preview article, we’ll focus on why Yamaha thinks this bike is a good idea now, and what it’s like to ride.
Why it’s Here

It already looks right at home.

Yamaha says after extensive market research, it decided to import the previously Euro-only FZ8 to the U.S. and Canada for 2011 to span the chasm between 600cc and 1000cc street-oriented sportbikes – while for now bringing its half-faired Fazer 8 sibling only to the Canadians and Euros.
Since 2005, “sportbikes,” including hypersports, sporty bikes, and sport-tourers, have comprised about 20% of all U.S. motorcycle sales, Yamaha says, second only to cruisers, which account for more than 40%.
In mining demographic data in these recessionary times, Yamaha sees a glint of gold in a trend toward buyers who want one do-it-all sportbike. Some of these buyers will be replacing existing bikes, or trading up from smaller bikes, while at the same time there’s a 9% decline in those seeking an additional bike to add to a stable.
Among 53 buyer preferences Yamaha researched, high on the list were rider positioning, attainable price, large-enough displacement, color and graphics, physical size, ease of touching feet to the ground, light and maneuverable handling, fuel economy, and more.
In short, the mission was to create a versatile and economical bike that comes closer than ever to letting riders with sporting inclinations have their cake and eat it too.


After sampling an FZ8 for nearly 130 miles, in conditions varying from highways to canyons to around town, we would say that this new machine could certainly fit the bill.
How it Works

Depending on whether you’re feeling like a glass-half-full or half-empty kind of person, you could either say the FZ8 feels like a 600 – but with power like a strong 750 – or you could say it’s like a detuned, lighter FZ1.
But while the FZ8’s 12.0:1 compression, fuel-injected engine shares the FZ1’s crankcase, 53.6mm stroke and basic architecture, it is not accurate to call it a sleeved-down version of the 11.5:1 compression FZ1 mill.
To begin with, the FZ8’s four-valve-per cylinder head is all new, as are its shorter lift and duration camshafts, and new intake funnels – 125mm-long for cylinders 1 and 4, and 150mm-long for cylinders 2 and 3 – that help broaden its powerband.
Coupled with its 35mm throttle body – 10mm narrower than the FZ1’s – these features enhance torque while still allowing for a respectable top-end rush.
Yamaha doesn’t make power claims, but the FZ8’s 11,500-max-rpm mill reportedly peaks at around 105 hp, and 61 ft-lb torque when measured at the crankshaft.


Speaking of which, the crankshaft is modeled on the FZ1’s but weighs 30% less, which Yamaha says helps it still rev quickly, while positively influencing handling.


How? Although the FZ8’s 467-lb curb weight is only 20 lbs lighter than its big brother, Yamaha says decreased crankshaft inertial mass can be discerned in the way the bike transitions from side to side. Coupled with a 10mm-narrower rear tire, Yamaha says the FZ8 feels 50 lbs lighter. We didn’t have an FZ1 to compare it to, but it’s at least sure the FZ8 exhibits a nimbleness that belies its mass.


Straddling one is also meant to be as unintimidating as possible. Coupled with an identical 32.1-inch seat height, Yamaha says it narrowed the rear of the 4.5 gallon fuel tank and the front of the rider’s saddle just to help shorter riders reach the ground.

Comfortable, confidence-inspiring, and sufficiently powerful.

The FZ8’s riding position is slightly more aggressive than the FZ1’s, yet still relatively neutral and functional. Handlebars are 5mm forward, while the footpegs are 15mm more rear set and 10mm lower.
And while Yamaha took pains to meet those of lesser stature, surprisingly enough, a 6-foot, 5-inch motojourno who was along for our ride reported he had no discomfort either.
Also displaying no unwanted issues is its operability. Start-up is instant, whereupon it settles into a steady idle around 1100 rpm indicated on the analog tachometer, which resides next to the digital display for speed, fuel, temperature, and trip data. (At night, backlighting is red.)

Twisting the throttle yields immediate response; the engine revs smoothly and its power characteristics would make it reluctant to stall even under a newbie's wrist. Ample torque fed through a clutch – with one less fiber and metal plate than the FZ1 – coupled with a light clutch-lever engagement make it a snap to get rolling.
The FZ8’s 17-inch Bridgestone Battlax BT021 sport-touring tires – 120/70 in front, and 180/55 out back – were developed specifically for it, and contribute to predictable characteristics.
They span between a 57.5-inch wheelbase sporting a 51/49, front/rear weight bias. The package is held up by a non-adjustable 43mm KYB fork, and preload-adjustable shock, each offering 130mm of travel.
Whether trolling down the highway, or bending through canyon S-curves in mile after undulating mile, the setup works.

Thanks to Aerostich for its GORE-TEX® Roadcrafter one-piece suit – the perfect outfit for a cool and slightly rainy day.

Riders on our trip ranged from about 150 lbs to over 250. And while no one griped inordinately about the suspension, it is noteworthy that the FZ1’s suspension comes with full adjustability. We think this would have been nice on the FZ8 too – but for $2000 less, this is one of its engineered compromises. Riders wanting to fine-tune the FZ8 can still do it the old fashioned way, by changing fork springs or oil.

It’s easy to get used to this bike.

And really, as-delivered it’s not much of a problem. While the springs aren’t especially firm, handling only became somewhat less confidence inspiring under my 185 lbs plus gear when pitched over, charging hard traversing rough or patch-repaired pavement.
This ability to take what comes is mostly due to the FZ1 chassis. The over-built alloy perimeter frame, and huge, shapely alloy swingarm hold everything in line as the horizon tilts to peg-scraping angles, inspiring riders to keep dipping deeper and faster.
The chassis is welcome considering the FZ8 engine is a mean little runner and makes for an effective tool that you don’t have to spool up like an Indy car to make haste, the way you do with a 600cc supersport.

The extra torque over a 600-class bike is welcome.

While I admit a bit of unease about riding hard on OE sport-touring tires in cool weather – and if it were mine, I’d slap on some sticky sport tires just for the extra performance margin – the Bridgestones never slipped during spirited riding, even after running over medium-quality asphalt curves that had just been sprinkled by light rain.
And no matter what the corner or speed, gearing for the 6-speed transmission is well-matched to engine output. The FZ8’s gearbox differs only from the FZ1’s by a lower final-drive ratio and lower first gear – which nevertheless hits an indicated 74 mph when bouncing off the rev limiter.

Sprints to 100 mph and beyond are no big deal, though we did not try to see how high we could climb. Likewise, reversing thrust with the 310mm discs grasped by monoblock four-pot calipers up front, and 267mm rear disc is easy and predictable, regardless of the bike’s velocity.
The 4-into-2-into-1, catalyst-equipped, stainless-steel exhaust, with shorty muffler tastefully blacked out, emits a suitably powerful but muted note. This is especially true in the upper range, where – milder cams or not – the familiar snarl of a tight inline-Four coming on the pipe matches the resultant switch to warp drive.
Lacking the FZ1’s taller half fairing, the FZ8’s protection from the elements is limited, but wind-blocking gear negated the need for more coverage, at least this time. Yamaha does offer a $129.95 smoked polycarbonate fly screen (not tested), which could help if desired.

Of course it might sound cooler with an aftermarket exhaust, and make a few extra ponies. The stock system gives the stealth factor, however. You can scream it when you need to, without drawing unwanted attention. Note curvaceous, control-filled die-cast aluminum swingarm. The process lets Yamaha precisely tune its characteristics.

Conclusion
If the race toward repli-racer superiority has done anything for the rest of motorcycling, it’s been to create a rich repository of technology ready to be re-tasked in bikes like Yamaha’s latest rendition of the Universal Japanese Motorcycle.
And as of yet, the $8490 FZ8 is essentially in a class by itself. It offers 80% the low and midrange torque that a literbike does – instead of something like 55-60% typical to a peaky 600 supersport. At the same time, it is about as agile as a 600, but its several-thousand-rpm lower operating range will be easier going on all those close-tolerance internal parts.
Of course, with limited suspension adjustability, and being somewhat heavier than uber-competitive 600 supersports, it is not really a direct opponent, but merely a competitive alternative for riders looking for a broadly talented performer.
In terms of displacement, the FZ8 best lines up with the 798cc parallel-Twin BMW F800R we recently tested. While we did not compare them back to back, the FZ8 feels more potent than the $9950 BMW. In terms of power, Triumph’s 675cc Street Triple is likely a close match, as is its $8899 MSRP

Yamaha had a fleet waiting for us at the lobby of a hotel in Venice, Calif.

Under a steady hand, it should get 40 mpg or better – Yamaha says it’s seen 201 miles from a full tank – and should be slightly less to insure than the $10,490 FZ1. Its price is just $1000 more than the FZ6R while being a generation ahead in performance and technology – especially its frame and swingarm.

While there are bikes that arguably compete, in a real sense, the FZ8 stands alone.

Other optional accessories for the FZ8 include a frame-mounted center stand ($189.95), protective frame sliders ($129.95), steel engine guards ($199.95), a passenger seat cowl cover ($229.95), bolt-on passenger grab bars ($119.95), a lower cowl ($219.95), radiator cover ($99.95), tank bag ($89.95), and more.
Unfortunately, that most useful of options – ABS – as offered in Europe, is not available in the U.S.
Offered in Raven (black) for this year only, Yamaha says it is shipping the FZ8 now, and has met with enthusiastic response from U.S. dealers who have pre-ordered an undisclosed quantity that nevertheless has Yamaha reps satisfied. They tell us the supposition is that this is a bike that should sell.

source:www.motorcycle.com

2011 Honda CB1000R Review

Turns out they listen to us after all. For years we’ve complained that our European counterparts get all the cool-looking motorcycles, and whenever we try to get them here those requests seem to fall on deaf ears. This holds especially true when it comes to naked sportbikes, which never seem to sell well over here.
Not this time. Honda’s CB1000R has already been available in Europe since 2008, and the liter-size sports naked has received positive reviews. For 2011, American Honda reps finally agreed to bring it to the USA.
Conservative as the company is, Honda is producing the CB1000R in limited numbers initially from its Italian manufacturing plant and will increase shipments if sales deem it worthy. As such, don’t expect to see it here in anything except black.

Every once in a blue moon we get a cool bike first seen in Europe on this side of the pond. In this case it’s the 2011 Honda CB1000R.

A Throwback To The Way Things Used To Be
Before the age of CBRs, GSX-Rs, ZX-Rs, and YZF-Rs, bikes like the CB1000R were considered the superbikes of the day. With minimal bodywork and upright handlebars, standard bikes like this didn’t have a category – they could do it all. Over the years, that formula has mutated into the genre-specific motorcycles we see today. Honda is aiming to bring back that classic style of the CB750 into a form fit for the 21st century.

While it doesn’t make nearly as much power as the CBR1000RR it was sourced from, the “retuned” mill provides plenty of grunt for street riding.

Pictures don’t do it justice, but when viewing the CB1000R in person from this angle, it really is svelte.

Where else should we start, then, but the engine. Based on the 2007 CBR1000RR 998cc motor (before the current generation), Honda refrains from calling the repurposed mill detuned, but instead calls it “retuned” for “loads of right-now power.” Whatever you want to call it, the “old” Honda superbike engine from just a few years ago now pumps out a modest 107 horsepower and 63.6 ft.-lb. of torque, according to the Superflow dyno at Gene Thomason Racing.
Retuned as it might be, the mill has plenty of power to get you out of the tightest situations. Or, if you’re like me, it has enough grunt to allow the rider to leave it in sixth gear and never touch the shift lever again at speeds above 20 mph. Speaking of gearing, the CB1K shifts with precise clicks each time you call for a gear. This is a feat we’re used to in many of Honda’s sport and sporty-type bikes.
Unlike Honda’s sportbikes, or any sportbike for that matter, the cockpit of the CB1K is noticeably neutral and unusually narrow, especially considering there’s a liter-class engine underneath you. Seat height is a reasonable 32.5 inches. The reach to the gold-anodized, tapered handlebars feels natural, while the footpegs are seemingly directly underneath the seat, which itself is fairly well cushioned. All told, the rider triangle harkens back to that of the CB750 of yore. Its narrow stature, however, “almost feels motard-like” as our own Pete Brissette put it.
A Trip Through Time
Riding the CB1000R is much like being transported back 30 years before motorcycles were so specific. Granted, I wasn’t alive 30 years ago, but I’ve heard stories. It’s so eager to hit the road, and the comfortable riding position makes it enticing to do so. Despite the fact it doesn’t have a windscreen, wind blast is fairly tolerable even at highway speeds.
Around town the bottom-end torque and rather short first gear makes quick work of stoplight drag races. And the fueling, especially at lower speeds, feels refined and seamless. Its narrow profile makes it a great urban dweller, as slicing between cars is supremely easy. The upswept handlebars provide enough leverage to maneuver wherever you need.

With plenty of torque on hand, simply sit back and twist the wrist and you’ll get results like this.

But when it comes down to it, the soul of the CB750 that’s found in the CB1000R yearns to be unleashed on twisty canyon roads, not in a straight line. It all starts in the die-cast aluminum frame that’s strong yet light and is the basis for the rest of the handling package.
That package consists of a fully adjustable 43mm Showa inverted fork in the front and a single Showa shock in the rear, adjustable only for spring preload and rebound damping. That shock is attached to a single-sided swingarm, which adds a bit of class and distinction to an already attractive design.

Suspension components are fully adjustable in front and lack only compression damping in the rear. Brakes on the CB are also competent for most situations, though our testers are split on their performance at the limit.

Thankfully the CB1000R performs as well as it looks. The handlebars that allow maneuverability on the everyday commute also add leverage to turn the bike in the canyons, aiding the bike’s lightweight feeling. In actuality, the CB1000R’s claimed wet weight is a substantial 485 pounds — about 30 pounds more than the 2007 CBR1000RR sportbike. It seems odd that a naked and minimalistic motorcycle weighs so much more than the fully-faired cousin it was derived from. Especially considering the CBR1000RR of the time was one of the heaviest literbikes on the market.
Nonetheless, the CB1000R hides that weight well with its ability to transition side to side extremely quickly and accurately. “Honda engineering at its best,” says Pete. “I don’t know how Big Red hid the extra pounds, but the CB’s feathery handling absolutely makes it feel as lightweight as a modern supersport. I didn’t believe the bike weighed as much as it does until I saw the figure in an official Honda press kit.”
Credit in this department also goes to the 180/55-17 rear tire Honda chose to fit on the CB. The taller, rounder profile helps make turn-in on the nearly 500-pound motorcycle a breeze.

We’re impressed by the Honda’s supremely agile handling, which is at least partly due to the 180/55-17 rear tire. Note also the single-sided swingarm.

When ridden at a brisk pace the suspension handles the bumps well, absorbing the bulk of imperfections on the road. It also allows the bike to track a consistent arc through turns. As delivered, our test bike was set up for a plush ride, with the preload ramp set to its lightest setting. Considering this, the ride was a touch soft when we ramped up the pace, but nothing a few clicks and turns of the adjusters couldn’t handle.

Get a little carried away with lean angle, and these comically long peg feelers will let you know.

Stopping the CB is a set of 310mm rotors and four-piston Tokico radial-mount calipers up front, sourced from the same generation CBR1000RR that donated its engine. A single 256mm disc and twin-piston caliper handle braking duties in the rear. Much like the suspension, for 90% of riding situations it has plenty of power and feel at the lever. But when pushed that extra 10%, our testers were split on the braking performance. Editor Duke felt the brakes were plenty strong, while Pete felt they lacked a strong initial bite like he prefers from most sportbike brake sets. The CB doesn’t come with ABS that is optional in other countries.
Blast From The Past
All told, the CB1000R really does its best to bring back the spirit and tradition of Hondas of old, but with the usual contemporary upgrades of less weight and more power. Not only does it look the part and carry some design cues from 30 years ago, its overall package feels like a modern-day interpretation of the early CBs as well. On the agility front, it’s uncanny how quickly the bike likes to get on its side.

source: http://www.motorcycle.com

2011 Aprilia Tuono V4R APRC Review

It’s a sunny morning in Valencia, and I’m at the Ricardo Tormo circuit sipping a coffee whilst listening to 20 roaring V4-powered Tuonos being warmed up in the pit lane. One of them is mine, all mine, for the day with a dedicated mechanic – I’m being treated like a MotoGP star.

I start my first session with the traction control set at level six and then reduce by one for each lap until I’m down at level one. The Aprilia 2011 Tuono V4R is a bit of a shock to the system as it just pulls like an angry bull everywhere and stops as if a freight train suddenly started pulling it in reverse. When I’ve finished my second 20-minute session I’m experiencing arm pump and a threatening cramp in my left leg each time I brake hard. My mechanic made some rear-suspension adjustments which changed the bike a lot and made my hard riding much easier.

Our European correspondent enjoyed a day of riding the 2011 Aprilia Tuono V4R APRC on track and street with a dedicated mechanic...so this is how the other half lives.

The V4 engine, taken directly from the RSV4 R superbike, suits the Tuono perfect with an absolute abundance of power. Aprilia has only de-tuned it slightly, down only 13 horsepower short of the RSV4 R. The Tuono is hard physical work when it hits the higher revs as I really have to push myself forward to avoid hanging after the bike by the handlebar. The Tuono munches up all the short straights at the Ricardo Tormo circuit like nothing else, and quickly it seems the whole circuit is a succession of corners with one long start/finish straight.

With the APRC traction control I can accelerate early from great lean in safety, and even on level one it feels safe despite some nice sliding action out of most corners. The only place on the Valencia circuit where there’s some room for relaxation is down the straight, but even here the enormous power and the wind pushes you back until it’s time for hard braking whilst shifting down the box.

Later in the day I preferred to short-shift up the quick shifter more to save my arms from the strain, and it hardly felt like I was going any slower. The three lower gears on the Tuono are lower than on the RSV4 R and it can be felt! Due to that great quick shifter I also made my way all the way up to sixth several times down the straight. The slipper clutch is equally good when shifting hard down to second ahead of the fast left-hander at the end of the straight. Then it’s all full throttle and sliding and a little wheelie all over again.

The Tuono V4R APRC leans into the corners like a superbike.

The Aprilia Tuono V4 R APRC we ride at the circuit has been fitted with the 200/55-ZR17 Pirelli Diablo Corsa rear tyre and aftermarket clutch and brake levers, which makes it even better than the standard I’m later riding on the road. The 200-section rear tire just offers so much grip, but still the brutal Tuono makes mincemeat of that too given half a chance.

Lean angles are absolutely of superbike standard, and there’s not much about this bike apart from the wide handlebars and the lack of a fairing that resembles a streetfighter. The one and only bike I can imagine being able to compete morally is the Ducati Streetfighter, and that has 17 horsepower less. The MV Agusta Brutale is too soft compared to this.

Despite going as fast as I could or dared, the Tuono just stays composed and is incredibly safe on the circuit. I can’t imagine ever making bad mistakes on this bike, as it forgives a rider with pity and just spits back “can’t you ride me any faster than that?” The Tuono is for those of us who like to ride fast on both the road and the track, and nobody will ever find this bike boring. It’s testosterone on two wheels.

I have never ridden any naked that feels as stable or as suited to a race track as the Tuono V4R APRC. As soon as the revs climb towards 10K rpm there’s a high-tech, roaring MotoGP-style mighty V4 sound exiting the exhaust. The rev limiter has been set to 12.300 rpm which allows for 800rpm of overrev if needed. You’ll be surprised by how mighty the Tuono midrange is from around 7,000 rpm. The lower gearing in the three lower gears just amplifies the arm-wrenching acceleration. The Tuono’s tall and wide handlebar allows for a relaxing ride on the road, but on the circuit, the V4 engine makes sure you get your arm exercise.

If you want to loft the front wheel skyward be sure to turn off the traction control.

The Tuono V4 R APRC has everything the RSV4 Factory APRC SE has got, so that includes wheelie control allowing smooth landings. Out on the road, it’s not the easiest bike to wheelie due to the ride-by-wire and sudden explosion of power. I had some fun on the motorway by pulling it up by pure power in second gear at anything between 60 and 75 mph, and just continued as far as I wanted or the revs would allow. The Tuono is definitely a big wheelie bike. Traction control must be off or you’ll be disappointed as the system quickly brings you back to earth. The traction control works by pushing the + or – button on the left side of the handlebar whilst on the move.

Traction control is your friend when you’re cruising the motorways.

Whilst I stayed in Track mode for all my laps around the circuit, on the road ride I found myself on a standard Tuono V4R APRC with the 190/55 rear tire, standard levers and the traction control set to a higher level and the riding mode set to Sport, which reduces the torque in lower gears. I played around with the traction control and found level three to be really good for our riding in the mountains. It adds a safe level of traction control. Later I changed to setting one for some wheelie fun and also off. Riding hard in the corners with traction control set to level one might not be sufficient to save a situation involving gravel and oil, so I needed more traction control for a relatively safe ride.

The one and only thing the APRC suite doesn’t cater for yet are ABS brakes. Reliable sources tell us Aprilia will launch something very good to the racing ABS segment soon. I had a couple of moments on the brakes because we never reached fast enough speeds to make brakes and tires work as well on the road as on the circuit. The Tuono V4R is a bit of a handful on the road, so I recommend people to use the traction control wisely.

The seat is hard and not very comfortable, so it didn’t take too many miles before I felt a bit wooden in my seat muscles. The Tuono is that type of compromise, but it is miles more comfortable than the RSV4 R superbike. The Tuono V4R is the roadbike for the rider that would otherwise ride a supersport but with a more upright riding position. Because I tell you the power and the handling is there.

Conclusion

The 2011 Aprilia Tuono V4R APRC is possibly the most extreme streetfighter-type streetbike ever made. Aprilia have upped the ante by a large measure. The V4 engine with its 167 horsepower is one of the best in the business, and its handling is exemplary.  Oh, yes, the Tuono V4R is that good.

Chevrolet Performance Chips Tuning to Upgrade Your speed Car

Are you in need of enhancing the performance of your car by installing performance chips? Do you expect the performance chips to improve the performance of you Chevrolet?

Chevrolet performance chips are a good solution to get the best out of your modified Chevrolet. They are able to monitor the different components of your engine and give a feed back to the engine computer to perform its task better. They are more useful for cars modified with aftermarket accessories.

Chevrolet is the bestselling car of General Motors. It has a range of vehicles from subcompacts to small trucks. They are very popular in North America. Chevrolet became the main competitor of Ford in the early days of car manufacture and is still preserving its position. It is a car fitted with an engine control computer but still there is room for performance upgrades. You have the option to install an aftermarket air intake or even engine performance kits.

As it is the case with almost all internal combustion engines the super charger is one of the key engine components that decide the performance of a car. Chevrolet is no exception in this context. If you have done any modifications to your car, may be it needs a boost to the air intake. You can install aftermarket air intake tubing for better performance. Even you have the possibility to have a super charger chip installed.

When you install Chevrolet performance chips, what happens is that they will monitor the performance of the various parts of your engine and will give a feed back to the engine control computer to perform better. When you drive the car you will feel that your car is smoother in every aspect. This means it performs better and you are going to save on fuel. To enjoy this, you need to install Chevrolet performance chips.

Car Stereo Installation Guide

If you find the professionals charge a good deal of money to set up the car stereo, you can do it yourself and save that amount paid towards the expert.

It is not very difficult to install a car audio system; it is just that it seems so. You only need a bit of precision and focus to put up the system. No specialized skills or intimate knowledge on car audio is required for this purpose. You can actually put the excess money that you save from the installation process behind the best car audio system itself, thus giving you the scope to buy something better.

While initiating the process, you need to be careful as loss of concentration may lead to the damage of equipments of your car and spoil the quality of the car stereo system. You need to be systematic as the plugs go into their respective sockets only.

Getting started

• After you purchase a new car audio system, see if it is fitting properly to the place of the old audio system. Along with your new car stereo system, also buy a cabling strap which is mechanized according to the car and stereo model and works brilliantly for new car stereo systems.

• Before you get down to your work, arrange for few tools like electrical tape, wire strippers, screwdrivers and wire cutters.

• If you are not able to unscrew out the old audio system, take some guidance on the right way to remove it from your dashboard where the new car stereo will fit in.

Removing the old car stereo

• At first, detach the negative cable from the battery as you should never work with that cable connected.

• Take out the dash board of your car to remove the old car audio system and check the wires that are linked at the back. Either there would be a single plug with too many wires attached to them or else a cluster of single wires. In case of the later one, it is best to disconnect them one at a time to avoid confusion.

• Put the connectors into the new cabling strap and plug it back into your new car stereo.

If you have successfully done this, you can leave out on the next section.

Connecting the Wiring Manually

• If there is no cabling strap support, attach each of the wires at the back of the back of the new car stereo very carefully.

• Slowly detect the positive wires from each speaker and connect them at the back of the positive connector of the new car stereo. Similarly, do the same with the negative wires of each speaker and connect them to the negative connectors of the car audio system. In case, if there is only one wire coming out from the speakers, the speakers are grounded at the chassis and you would have to install a new wiring for the speakers.

• The negative wire, attached with metal and not plastic should be connected with a screw near the radio in the dash.

• The ignition wires and the 12 constant, both positive is supposed to be connected together to the back of the new stereo.

Putting in the car stereo

• All the wires should be attached to a single connector which is coming out from the additional cabling strap or the one which came along with the car stereo system where all the wires have been connected to.

• If there is no new bracket to place the new car stereo, use the old one that previously held the factory stereo system.

• Now put the final connector which is the cabling strap at the back of the stereo system along with the antenna, a long wire which was previously connected at the back of the old stereo and the power wire at the back of the new car stereo unit.

• Put the stereo system inside the dashboard where the previous system was placed but do not put back the screws as you may require testing the system.

• Now is the time when you should again attach back the negative cable to the battery.

• Start your car as well as power on the car stereo unit. Check keenly, whether all the speakers attached is working fine.

• Put the screws back into the stereo system and put the cover of the dash board back on.

In case results are unsatisfactory

If you still find the system is not delivering satisfying results, you can use a wooden or fiberglass flummox with which the sound quality will get better and you can even include noise reduction objects like liners, glue strips, put in more carpets on the inner panel and use sprays.